Table Saw Troubleshooting: Fixing Common Cutting Issues

Published 08/27/2025 | By Marcus Campbell

Table saws are the workhorses of a shop—fast, accurate, unforgiving. When they misbehave, your cuts go from “cabinet-grade” to “why is this smoking?” in a blink. This guide walks you through rapid diagnostics and precise fixes for the most common table-saw cutting problems. We’ll start with a quick symptom map, then move into targeted solutions—plus safety must-dos, a baseline tune-up, and preventative maintenance so the gremlins don’t return.

Safety First

Before you touch a wrench:

Unplug the saw (or lock out the breaker). No exceptions.
Install blade guards/riving knife when not doing non-through cuts. Kickback prevention starts here.
Use push sticks, push blocks, and featherboards to keep your hands clear and feed steady.
Eye, ear, and dust protection—always.
Never freehand on the table saw. Unless specifically jigged, use the fence or miter gauge, not both simultaneously.

Quick Symptom → Likely Cause → Fast Fix

Symptom	Most Likely Causes	What to Check/Fix First
Burn marks on the edges	Dull/dirty blade, fence not parallel, feed too slow, wrong tooth geometry	Clean/replace blade; realign blade & fence; increase feed; choose a ripping blade for rips
Ridges/lines on the cut face	Blade wobble (runout), warped blade, arbor flange debris, fence toe-in	Check arbor runout; inspect blade flatness; clean flanges; set fence parallel or slight toe-out
Cut isn’t square / wanders	Blade not parallel to miter slots, fence out of parallel, miter gauge sloppy	Align blade to slot; align fence to slot; tighten miter gauge bar
Binding/kickback	Fence pinching stock, no riving knife/splitter, internal board stress, poor technique	Set the fence parallel/slightly toe-out; install a riving knife; use featherboards; rip with grain.
Tear-out/chip-out	Wrong blade for operation, no zero-clearance insert (ZCI), aggressive feed	Use a crosscut/combination blade; add ZCI; regulate feed
Bevel angles off	Blade tilt scale miscalibrated, trunnions out, warped insert	Calibrate with a digital angle gauge or machinist square; check trunnion stops
Bogging/stalling	Dull blade, underpowered motor/voltage drop, wrong blade for thick stock	Sharpen/replace; use shorter/heavier-gauge extension cord; choose low-tooth ripping blade
Excess vibration/noise	Imbalanced blade, sour belts/bearings, pulleys misaligned, stand not rigid	Swap blade; check belt tension/pulley alignment; stiffen base; consider link belt
Dado set cuts unevenly	Stacked dado not seated, wrong shims, arbor threads/flange dirty	Reseat stack; recalibrate shims; clean arbor and flanges

The Baseline Tune-Up

Think of this as your “return to neutral” procedure. Once the saw is trued up

, many problems vanish.

You’ll want the following tools: combination square, straightedge, feeler gauges, digital angle gauge, dial indicator (optional but excellent), hex keys, wrench set, dry lube, and paste wax.

Clean and de-gunk.

Remove the throat plate and blade—scrub pitch/resin from the blade with a dedicated cleaner or mineral spirits (gloves on). Clean the table, fence faces, miter slots, and the arbor flange. Dust cake on trunnions = sticky adjustments.

Check blade flatness & install the right blade.

Spin the blade by hand while holding a fixed pointer (a pencil taped to a block works). If it wobbles, verify that it’s seated flat. If the wobble persists, replace it or use a dial indicator to measure runout.

Align the blade to the miter slot.

With the blade raised, measure from a tooth at the front of the blade to the left miter slot, then rotate the same tooth to the back and measure again. Adjust trunnions or table so front/back differ by ≤ 0.003 in. Closer is better.

Align the fence to the miter slot.

Set the rip fence and compare the front vs. the back distance to the slot. Aim for a dead parallel or a whisper of toe-out at the outfeed (≤ 0.002–0.004 in) to reduce pinch.

Set the riving knife/splitter.

It should be directly behind the blade, aligned to the centerline, and slightly thinner than the kerf, so it prevents closing cuts without rubbing.

Calibrate the bevel and height.

Zero a digital angle gauge on the table, attach it to the blade, and precisely set 0° and 45° stops. Verify with a machinist’s square.

Lubricate and wax.

Dry lube on height/tilt screws and trunnion ways. Paste wax on the table and fence (not on belts or bearings) for smoother feed.

Now your saw is squared away—time to solve the specific gremlin.

Burn Marks on the Cut

What’s happening: The blade is scraping instead of shearing, or the wood is stalling against a pinching fence.

Fixes, in order:

Clean/replace the blade. Pitch creates heat. A freshly cleaned 24T–30T ripping blade for thick rips or a 40T combination for general work makes a night-and-day difference.
Increase feed rate—smoothly. Too slow = polish and burn. Keep steady pressure; let the teeth cut.
Realign the fence. If the wall toes in toward the back of the blade, you’ll scorch. Set it parallel or a hair toe-out.
Use a riving knife and a ZCI. They keep the kerf from closing and support fibers.
Check wood moisture and species. Dense/resinous woods (maple, cherry) burn easily—use a sharp rip blade without hesitation.

Pro tip: If you smell burning on crosscuts, switch to an 80T crosscut blade and add a sacrificial fence with a ZCI.

Ridges or Washboard on the Cut Face

The root causes are blade wobble (runout), warped blade, fence toe-in, or debris on the arbor flange.

Steps to remedy:

Pull the blade; inspect and clean the arbor flange. A single speck can kick the blade off-plane.
Measure runout. Use a dial indicator at the blade plate (not the teeth). If runout exceeds ~0.003 in, try another blade. If multiple blades wobble, suspect arbor bearings.
Check fence alignment. Even a slight toe-in can leave chatter marks.
Use the right blade. A combo blade will crosscut fine, but a ripping blade is needed to avoid chatter for heavy rips in thick stock.

Cut Wanders or Isn’t Square

Likely culprits: Blade not parallel to miter slots, fence out, miter gauge slop.

Corrections:

Realign blade to left miter slot (see baseline). That’s your master reference.
Align the fence to that same slot.
Tighten the miter gauge. Adjust the bar’s expansion discs or add thin shims so it runs without side play.
Support long stock. Roller stands or outfeed tables prevent droop that can steer the cut.

Tear-Out and Chip-Out

What chews up the edges: The fibers aren’t supported as the tooth exits the work.

Eliminate it:

Use a zero-clearance insert matched to the blade height; it supports fibers at the cut line.
Use the correct blade geometry. Crosscuts and sheet goods like higher tooth counts and alternate-top-bevel (ATB) grind. Plywood loves 80T ATB with a ZCI.
Score the cut. For ultra-clean faces, score shallow, then raise the blade for the through-cut.
Painter’s tape on the exit side of veneered plywood can help in a pinch.

Binding and Kickback Risks

The big one to treat with respect. Binding happens when the kerf closes or the fence pinches the work, launching it back.

Risk-reduction checklist:

Fence parallel or slight toe-out at the outfeed end so the wood doesn’t get squeezed.
Riving knife/splitter installed and aligned—this alone dramatically cuts risk.
Featherboards to keep the work away from the fence before the blade.
Correct technique: Keep the board tight to the fence and feed straight through. Don’t pull the offcut back across the blade—use an outfeed support so pieces clear safely.
Mind internal tension. Some boards will close as they’re ripped; the riving knife prevents pinch, but pause and wedge the kerf if you see it closing.

Bevel Angles Off (45° that isn’t 45°)

Why it drifts: Tilt stops are off, the blade isn’t perfectly vertical at “0,” or the insert warps the work.

Make it true:

Zero with a digital angle gauge. Place it on the table, zero, stick to the blade, adjust to 0° (or 90° to the table), and set stops accordingly.
Verify with a machinist square against the blade plate (avoid tooth set).
Check the throat plate. A warped insert can tilt the work slightly—use a flat ZCI.

The Saw Boggs Down or Stalls

Common causes: Dull blade, wrong tooth count for the job, under-voltage, belt slip.

Get the power back:

For thick or wet stock, use a ripping blade (fewer, deeper gullets). Combination blades struggle on 8/4 hardwood.
Short, heavy-gauge cords. Long skinny cords starve motors. Keep it short and thick (e.g., 12 AWG).
Check belt tension and pulley alignment on belt-drive saws. Replace cracked belts; consider a link belt to reduce vibration.
Listen for a failing start/run capacitor on induction motors (hard starts, humming). That’s a replace-the-part job.

Excess Vibration or Unusual Noise

What shakes: Unbalanced blade, bent arbor, failing bearings, loose stand.

Steps:

Swap the blade first. If vibration disappears, you have found your culprit.
Check arbor runout with a dial indicator. If excessive, bearings may be worn.
Square and stiffen the stand. Add braces, level the feet, and bolt it down.
Align pulleys (straightedge across both). A misaligned belt chatters and eats power.

Dado/Stacked Set Cuts Look Uneven

Why: The stack isn’t seated flat, chippers are reversed, or shimming is off.

Remedy:

Clean the arbor and flange. Any pitch or dust distorts the stack.
Assemble carefully: Outer blades face out, chippers oriented correctly, shims adjusted in small steps. Spin the stack by hand to check for wobble before powering up.
ZCI for dado width to support fibers and reduce fuzz.

Blade Selection Cheat Sheet

Ripping solid wood (with the grain): 24T–30T full-kerf or thin-kerf ripping blade, flat-top grind (FTG), positive hook angle. Fast, clean rips with fewer burn marks.
General purpose: 40T combination (ATB/R) for mixed rip/crosscut. Great shop default.
Crosscutting/Plywood/Veneer: 60–80T ATB or Hi-ATB for crisp edges. Pair with a ZCI.
Laminates/Melamine: Hi-ATB or triple-chip grind (TCG) with ZCI to fight chip-out.
Non-ferrous metals/plastics: TCG, many teeth, slow feed, proper hold-downs.

Thin-kerf vs. full-kerf: Thin-kerf helps underpowered saws but is more sensitive to fence pressure and can deflect. Use a stiff, high-quality thin-kerf blade or upgrade the power if you see deflection.

Preventative Maintenance

Clean blades regularly. Pitch behaves like glue and a heat sink in reverse.
Wax the table and fence monthly. Lower friction = safer, straighter cuts.
Vacuum dust from trunnions and gears. Dust is abrasive; it accelerates wear.
Check alignment quarterly (or after moving the saw).
Inspect belts and cords. Replace cracked belts; avoid daisy-chained, thin extension cords.

Quick Diagnostic Flow

Is the blade clean and sharp, and the right type for the cut?
Is the blade parallel to the miter slot (≤ 0.003 in) and the fence parallel (or whisper toe-out)?
Is the riving knife installed and aligned?
Do you have a zero-clearance insert for this blade height/width?
Are you using steady feed with proper support (outfeed/roller stands)?
If vibration/noise persists, check arbor runout, belt/pulley alignment, and stand rigidity.

Follow that sequence, and most issues resolve without heroic measures.

FAQs

Why is my table saw burning wood?

Usually, a dull or dirty blade plus a slow feed. Clean or replace the blade, pick a ripping blade for thick rips, and make sure the fence isn’t toe-in. A riving knife and ZCI help, too.

How can I get rid of those tiny ridges on the cut face?

Check the arbor and blade runout, clean the arbor flange, and verify the fence is parallel. If the blade itself is warped, retire it.

Do I need a zero-clearance insert?

If you want clean edges, yes. ZCIs support fibers at the cut line, reduce chip-out, and improve safety by shrinking the throat gap.

What’s the safest way to prevent kickback?

Riving knife/splitter installed and aligned, fence not pinching at the back, featherboards for consistent pressure, and never freehand. Keep your body out of the line of fire.

What blade should I leave on most of the time?

A high-quality 40T combination blade. Swap to a rip blade for heavy rips and a fine crosscut blade for veneered panels.

My bevel reads 45°, but joints don’t close—why?

Your tilt stop is off, or your insert is lifting the work. Calibrate with a digital angle gauge and verify with a square against the blade plate.

When should I replace a blade instead of cleaning it?

When teeth are chipped or missing, the plate is warped, or performance stays poor after cleaning and sharpening. Cheap blades dull fast; premium plates hold alignment and sharpen better.

Conclusion

When a table saw misbehaves, the cure is almost always fundamentals: a sharp, clean, appropriate blade; a truly parallel fence and blade; a riving knife and zero-clearance insert doing quiet, constant work in the background. Start with the baseline tune-up, then chase the Symptoms with a targeted fix—burns mean heat and pinch, ridges point to runout or alignment, and tear-out begs for fiber support and the right tooth geometry. Feed steadily, support your work, and never freehand.

Make prevention a habit: clean blades, waxed tables, dust-free trunnions, quarterly alignment checks, and belts/pulleys in good order. Swap to a ripping blade for thick stock, a fine ATB for veneers and plywood, and keep a ZCI matched to each setup. Do these simple things and your saw will reward you with straight, clean, predictable cuts—and a safer shop. Print the checklist, keep it near the switch, and let the machine hum while you focus on the craft.