Recognizing the Types of Table Saw Blades and Their Applications

Choose the wrong table saw blade; even the straightest fence won’t save you. Burn marks bloom, fibers tear, and cuts wander. Choose well and the wood glides—clean edges, flat kerfs, glue joints that snap together with a satisfying click. This guide demystifies table saw blade types and their uses so you can pick with intent, not guesswork.

We’ll decode the moving parts—diameter, arbor, tooth count, kerf width, hook angle, gullets, carbide quality—and then translate tooth geometry into real results: FTG for fast rips, ATB/Hi-ATB for crisp crosscuts and veneers, TCG for melamine, MDF, plastics, and non-ferrous metals. You’ll see where thin-kerf shines on small motors, when full-kerf earns its keep, and why combination and general-purpose blades are similar but not the same. We’ll also tackle specialty gear—dado stacks for flat-bottom grooves—and the setup that makes every blade better: zero-clearance inserts, alignment, and steady feed.

Whether you’re a weekend builder ripping 2× stock, a cabinetmaker breaking down prefinished plywood, or a jobsite pro chasing speed without sacrificing edge quality, the goal is simple: match blade to material and cut. By the end, you’ll know exactly which blade to mount before your next pass—and why it will leave a cleaner, safer, faster cut. Bottom of Form

Why Table Saw Blades Matter

A table saw can be a surgeon’s scalpel or a demolition bar; the blade you choose decides which. Swap the wrong blade into the right saw and you’ll get burning, blowout, wandering cuts, and a chorus of tear-out. Choose well; the wood glides, the kerf looks polished, and glue joints press tight with barely a whisper of sanding. In short, the blade is the soul of the saw.

This guide unpacks the anatomy, geometry, and use cases of table saw blades so you can confidently select whether you’re rough-ripping 2× stock, scoring plywood veneers, or sneaking up on piston-fit joinery.

Blade Anatomy And Key Terms

Before we dive into blade types, let’s decode the parts and jargon you’ll see on packaging and spec sheets:

• Diameter: Most table saws use 10-inch blades; some compact/jobsite saws use 8¼” or 9″, and larger cabinet saws may run 12″. Match the blade to your saw’s rated diameter and arbor size (commonly 5/8″).
• Arbor: The center bore. Must match the saw’s arbor for safe, concentric mounting.
• Tooth Count (T): Lower tooth counts remove material fast (24–30T), higher counts refine the cut (60–80T+).
• Kerf: The width of the cut. Thin-kerf (~0.090″–0.110″) needs less power; full-kerf (~0.118″–0.125″) is stiffer and resists deflection.
• Carbide Tips: Most modern blades use brazed carbide teeth. Premium blends hold an edge longer and tolerate more sharpenings.
• Plate: The steel body. Quality plates are tensioned to run true at speed and resist vibration.
• Expansion Slots: Laser-cut reliefs that control heat growth and reduce noise.
• Gullet: The space ahead of each tooth that carries chips out of the cut.

Remember these; they drive every performance difference you’ll feel at the fence.

Tooth Geometry And What It Means

Tooth shape is the heart of blade behavior. Here are the geometries you’ll encounter most:

• FTG (Flat Top Grind): Square chisel-like teeth. Aggressive, durable, and ideal for fast rips with minimal burning. Leaves flat-bottomed kerfs—great for joinery shoulders and dados (when used in a stack).
• ATB (Alternate Top Bevel): Teeth alternate left/right bevels like tiny knives. This technique is excellent for crosscutting and clean edges in solid wood and many sheet goods.
• Hi-ATB (High Alternate Top Bevel): Even steeper bevel angles (30°–40°). Slices delicate veneers and laminates with surgical crispness, but teeth are more fragile and dull faster in abrasive materials.
• TCG (Triple Chip Grind) alternates a chamfered “trapezoid” tooth with a rake tooth. It is tough on abrasive materials—melamine, MDF, laminates, and non-ferrous metals—while resisting chipping and heat.
• ATB/R (ATB With Raker, AKA Combination): Groups of ATB teeth plus a flat raker. Designed to split the difference between ripping and crosscutting for general shop use.

Pair geometry to task and material, and you’ll see immediate upgrades in cut quality.

Kerf Width: Thin Vs Full

• Thin-Kerf (~3/32″): Ideal for under-powered saws (portable/jobsite) or when you want to minimize waste. They cut more easily and heat less quickly. Downside: slightly more prone to deflection in heavy rips or tall stock—use a sharp, high-quality blade and steady feed.
• Full-Kerf (~1/8″): Stiffer plate that tracks straighter in demanding cuts, preferred on contractor and cabinet saws with stronger motors (1.5–3+ HP). They tolerate minor misalignment better and often deliver the cleanest glue-ready rips.

If you saw bogs with full kerf, step down. If your thin kerf wobbles or burns despite careful setup, consider full kerf.

Hook Angle, Gullet, And Plate

Hook (Rake) Angle:

• Positive (10°–20°): More self-feeding. Great for ripping with the grain; can feel grabby in crosscuts.
• Neutral (0°) To Low Positive (5°–10°): Balanced feed for general-purpose and crosscutting.
• Negative (−5° to −10°): Tames brittle surfaces and non-ferrous metals; common on miter-saw blades to reduce climb. On table saws, a mild positive is typical; negative rake is reserved for specialty tasks.

Gullet Size

Big gullets on low-tooth rip blades evacuate thick chips, while small gullets on high-tooth crosscut blades support thin chips and crisp edges.

Plate Quality

Flatness, tensioning, and vibration control separate premium blades from bargain bins. A stable plate runs quieter, cuts cooler, and leaves fewer tooth marks.

Common Table Saw Blade Types And Best Uses

Rip Blades (FTG, 24T–30T)

Purpose-built to plow with the grain. Big gullets, stout carbide, and positive hook angles move chips out fast. Expect efficient feed rates and flat-bottomed kerfs. Use for dimensioning boards, jointing edges on the saw, and prepping stock for glue-ups. Not ideal for crosscuts—edges may show slight splintering.

Crosscut Blades (ATB/Hi-ATB, 60T–80T)

Dense tooth counts and keen bevels shear fibers cleanly across the grain. Feed more slowly and keep the blade sharp—dull ATB blades burn quickly. These shine in casework, face frames, and trim where edge quality is non-negotiable.

General-Purpose Blades (ATB, ~40T–50T)

This is the do-it-yourself option for small shops. A 40T ATB with a moderate hook angle rips respectably up to ~1″ stock and crosscuts with minimal tear-out. It’s not perfect at either extreme, but it’s fantastic when you don’t want to swap blades continually.

Combination Blades (ATB/R, 50T—4 And 1 Grouping)

Tooth groups of four ATB plus a flat rake split the difference between clean crosscuts and flat-bottom ripping. Better ripping than many 40T GP blades, and the raker leaves flat kerfs that can help with joinery fit. Slightly noisier due to grouped gullets.

Plywood And Veneer Blades (Hi-ATB, 60T–80T)

Hyper-keen bevels score fragile face veneers and minimize exit-side chipping. Pair with a zero-clearance insert and/or apply blue tape on the exit edge for best results. Feed deliberately; the goal is slicing, not prying.

Laminate/MDF/Melamine Blades (TCG, 60T–80T)

These materials are abrasive and prone to chipping. TCG teeth shrug off the grit and resist micro-fractures. Expect glassy edges on melamine and cleaner cuts on MDF shelving with far less fuzz.

Dado Stacks (FTG/ATB/R, Stacked 6″–8″)

A stack of chippers and outside cutters that cut grooves and rabbets with flat bottoms. Dado sets vary in tooth geometry; premium sets include shims for dialing in exact widths. Always confirm that your saw and arbor length are rated for dado use, and install the appropriate throat plate.

Non-Ferrous Metal And Plastic Blades (TCG, 80T–100T, Often Negative Hook)

For aluminum extrusions, brass, copper, and acrylics. Use sleds, clamps, and controlled feeds. Wax or specialized lube sticks help reduce chip welding on plastics. Never use these on ferrous metals.

Quick Comparison Of Use Cases

How To Choose The Right Blade For Your Saw And Work

• Match the Motor: Sub-2 HP or portable saw? Start with a thin kerf to protect feed rate and reduce bogging. Cabinet saw with 3 HP? Enjoy the stiffness of full kerf.
• Define The Primary Cut: If two-thirds of your cuts are rips in 4/4–6/4 hardwood, a dedicated 24T rip blade plus a 60T crosscut is a power combo. If you do “a bit of everything,” grab a quality 40T–50T general-purpose tool and add specialty blades as needs arise.
• Respect the Material: Veneers and melamine hate tear-out, so choose Hi-ATB or TCG with a zero-clearance insert. MDF is abrasive, so prefer TCG for longevity.
• Mind the Joinery: Do you need dead-flat bottoms for dados and tenon shoulders? You can favor FTG or ATB/R, where the raker levels the kerf.
• Consider Cost Per Cut, Not Sticker Price: Premium carbide holds an edge longer and can be sharpened multiple times. The cheapest blade that burns and chatters is the costliest in wasted lumber and rework.

Setup Tips For Cleaner, Safer Cuts

• Install A Zero-Clearance Insert: Supports fibers at the edge of the kerf, dramatically reducing tear-out in plywood and crosscuts.
• Align The Saw: Ensure the blade is parallel to the miter slots, and the fence is parallel to the blade. Misalignment equals burning and kickback risk.
• Use a Riveting Knife or splitter. This prevents the kerf from closing behind the blade and helps prevent kickback—it is non-negotiable for ripping.
• Set Blade Height Properly: A good rule is to raise the blade so the gullets clear the stock’s top surface; this balances shear, safety, and chip evacuation.
• Support and Guide: Use a sharp, square crosscut sled for precise miters and crosscuts, and featherboards and push sticks for safe, straight rips.
• Feed Smoothly: Don’t hesitate or stop mid-cut. Consistent feed reduces burning and tooth marks.

Maintenance, Cleaning, And Sharpening

A clean, sharp blade cuts cooler and straighter. It also lasts longer.

• Clean Resin and Pitch: Baked-on resin increases friction and heat. Soak blades in a dedicated blade cleaner or a mild household degreaser; scrub with a nylon brush, rinse, and dry thoroughly. Avoid harsh abrasives that scratch the plate.
• Inspect Teeth: Look for chipped carbide, rounded edges, or missing tips. A dull ATB blade is a burn machine; a chipped Hi-ATB will tear veneers.
• Sharpen Professionally: Carbide needs a pro with the right wheels and geometry. Keep a rotation: one on the saw, one at the sharpener, one ready.
• Store Smart: Hang blades on pegs or slot them in cases so teeth don’t collide. If you’re in a humid shop, protect the plate from rust with a light film of oil.
• Mind Heat: Stop if you smell scorching or see browning on the plate. Heat warps plates and softens temper, often permanently.

Common Mistakes And How To Avoid Them

• Using One Blade For Everything: A 40T GP can do much, but won’t rival a 24T rip in heavy stock or an 80T crosscut on veneered panels. Own at least two blades tailored to your work mix.
• Ignoring Kerf and Power: Thin kerf rescues small motors; full kerf stabilizes big rips. Match kerf to horsepower and cut height.
• Feeding Too Slowly: Creeping feed polishes and burns. Keep it steady; let the blade cut.
• Skipping Zero-Clearance: Tear-out on plywood edges is often an insert problem, not a blade problem.
• Running Dull: Forcing a dull blade is hard on you, the saw, and the wood. Put sharpening on the calendar.

Example Blade Kits For Different Woodworkers

Cabinetry And Fine Woodworking

• Primary: 80T Hi-ATB crosscut for panels and trim.
• Secondary: 24T FTG rip for dimensioning solids.
• Add-On: 50T ATB/R combo for general tasks and flat-bottom kerfs; dado stack for joinery.
• Kerf: Full-kerf on 3 HP cabinet saws for perfect tracking.

Small Garage Shop Or Jobsite Saw

• Primary: 40T ATB general-purpose thin-kerf for daily cuts.
• Secondary: 60T–80T ATB crosscut thin-kerf for plywood and finish work.
• Add-On: 24T thin-kerf rip if you process lots of 2× material.
• Kerf: Thin-kerf to keep RPMs and feed smooth on lower-power motors.

Built-Ins, Closets, And Euro-Style Casework

• Primary: 80T TCG for melamine and laminates.
• Secondary: 60T Hi-ATB for veneered plywood.
• Add-On: 40T GP for solid edging and general cuts.
• Tricks: Always pair with zero-clearance inserts and backer boards at the exit edge.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s The Difference Between General-Purpose And Combination Blades?

General-purpose blades are usually 40–50T ATB with even gullets, balanced for decent rips and crosscuts. Combination blades are often 50T with grouped teeth (four ATB plus one flat rake) that improve ripping and leave flatter kerfs, with slightly more noise and a different cut signature.

Is Thin-Kerf Less Accurate Than Full-Kerf?

Not inherently. Thin-kerf tracks fine on a well-tuned saw with the correct feed rate and a sharp blade, especially in ≤1″ stock. Full-kerf’s stiffness can hold the line better in tall rips or dense hardwoods.

Can I Use A Miter-Saw Blade On A Table Saw?

It’s not ideal. Many miter-saw blades have neutral or negative hook angles to prevent self-feeding; they can feel sluggish on a table saw and aren’t optimized for ripping. Use blades designed for table-saw geometry unless you handle specialty materials that call for negative rake (e.g., non-ferrous metals).

How Often Should I Sharpen?

When you see burn marks, extra push force, fuzzy edges, or increased tear-out, it’s time. For hobbyists, that might be every few months; for production shops, far more frequent. Cleaning extends the interval.

What Blade Leaves The Flattest Bottom For Dados And Tenons?

FTG teeth (and ATB/R with a rake) leave flat-bottomed kerfs. Dedicated dado stacks are designed to produce crisp, level floors in grooves and rabbets.

Do More Teeth Always Mean A Cleaner Cut?

Only relative to the task. More teeth help crosscuts and thin-chip materials; fewer teeth help rips by evacuating large chips. The correct geometry and hook angle matter as much as tooth count.

Conclusion

Pick the blade for the cut, not the other way around. For most shops, a two-blade core (24T rip + 60–80T crosscut) does 90% of the work at a high level. Add a 40–50T general-purpose for “grab-and-go,” a Hi-ATB for veneers, a TCG for melamine/MDF or non-ferrous, and a dado stack for joinery, and your table saw becomes a precision instrument. Keep the blade clean, the saw aligned, and your inserts tight to the kerf, and you’ll turn rough lumber and tricky sheet goods into crisp, burn-free parts—fast.

If you’d like, I can tailor a blade kit to your exact saw model, horsepower, and the materials you cut most.