The Best Table Saw Blades for Cutting Plywood Cleanly (2025 Guide)

Plywood is unforgiving. Under its pretty veneer hides cross-grained plies that love to chip, fuzz, and fray—especially when you shove the wrong blade through it. The cure isn’t mystical; it’s geometry. Choose the right tooth shape, tooth count, hook angle, and kerf, pair that blade with a few setup tricks, and tear-out turns into glassy edges.

Below is a pragmatic, deeply tested buyer’s guide—with specific picks—so you can dial in clean, chip-free cuts on veneered plywood, melamine, and laminates.

What Matters for Clean Plywood Cuts

Tooth Geometry (Hi-ATB)

High Alternate-Top-Bevel tips slice fibers like tiny knives. Fine Woodworking calls out 80-tooth Hi-ATB as the go-to for plywood because it produces “immaculate cuts,” especially when paired with a near-zero/negative hook.

Hook Angle (0° to negative)

A neutral or negative hook softens the tooth’s entry/exit, reducing veneer lift and blow-out—ideal for plywood, MDF, laminates, and melamine.

Tooth Count (≈80T on 10″)

More teeth = smoother cuts at slower feed rates. Plywood and melamine respond best to 60–100T ranges; 80T is the sweet spot for 10″ blades.

Kerf (Thin vs Full)

Thin-kerf blades (≈3/32″) cut with less power—great for 1.5–2 HP saws—but can deflect if pushed too hard. Full-kerf (1/8″) plates are stiffer and track straighter, useful on 3 HP+ cabinet saws.

Plate & Damping

Laser-cut bodies, anti-vibration slots, and quality carbide keep the cut quiet and crisp and help the blade stay sharper, longer.

Best Table Saw Blades for Plywood

Forrest Duraline Hi-AT, 10″ x 80T (1/8″ kerf) — “No-Compromise Finish”

This is the classic pick if you want edges that look like they came off a panel saw with a scoring blade. Its steep 40° Hi-ATB tooth form is purpose-built for veneered plywood and melamine, and the plate quality is superb. Expect a feather-fine surface—and a blade that can be resharpened often.

Best for: Cabinet work, show-face parts, prefinished ply, laminates.

Consider: Premium price; Hi-ATB tips are delicate (avoid rough ripping).

Freud LU80R010 “Ultimate Plywood & Melamine”, 10″ x 80T

Engineered specifically for chip-prone sheet goods, the LU80 stacks the deck in your favor: Hi-ATB grind, anti-vibration slots, and Freud’s Perma-Shield coating to reduce drag and pitch. It routinely yields flawless, chip-free edges in veneered plywood and laminates. Thin-kerf sibling LU79 exists if you need less load on a smaller saw.

Best for: Cabinet and home shops that want repeatable “glass-edge” cuts.

Consider: Keep feed steady; let the teeth shear—don’t force the cut.

Diablo D1080X “Ultra Finish”, 10″ x 80T

A price-conscious workhorse that still brings Hi-ATB geometry to the table. Diablo markets a flawless finish in melamine & veneered plywood, thanks to high tooth count and stabilizer vents. It’s widely available and performs well when you mind setup.

Best for: Budget-friendly clean cuts; jobsite/table saws without a scoring blade.

Consider: Slightly more general-purpose than dedicated plywood/melamine blades like LU80 or Duraline.

Amana MB10800C “Double-Face Melamine”, 10″ x 80T, –6° hook

Amana’s Hi-ATB with negative hook targets fragile coatings and veneers; it’s specifically designed for double-sided melamine/laminate and adapts nicely to veneered plywood. The thicker plate resists chatter.

Best for melamine carcasses and veneer-sensitive cuts that still need durability.

CMT 210.080.10 Melamine & Fine Cut-Off, 10″ x 80T, ≈38° Hi-ATB

CMT’s industrial blade mixes Hi-ATB geometry with a gentle ~2° hook, aimed squarely at laminates, veneered plywood, and cross-grained work. A solid alternative if Freud/Forrest are out of stock.

Oshlun SBL-100080 Melamine & Laminate, 10″ x 80T, negative hook

An economical Hi-ATB with negative hook, copper-plugged expansion slots, and quality C-4 carbide. It’s a surprising over-performer for shop builds where you still care about edges.

Irwin Marples 10″ x 80T Hi-ATB

Irwin’s Marples series targets fine finish work; the 80T Hi-ATB model is commonly used for plywood and delicate moldings. In absolute finish, it is not as aggressive as the Duraline/LU80, but it is plenty clean for cabinet interiors and shop furniture.

Quick Comparison (Specs That Matter)

Blade	Geometry	Hook	Kerf	Where It Shines
Forrest Duraline Hi-AT 80T	Hi-ATB ~40°	Near 0° to neg.	1/8″	Show-face veneers, dead-clean melamine edges.
Freud LU80R010 80T	Hi-ATB	Low/neutral	~0.126″	Flawless plywood/laminate finish; anti-vibe plate.
Diablo D1080X 80T	Hi-ATB	+10° to +15° (finish)	~0.098″	Clean veneers are available on a budget and are widely available.
Amana MB10800C 80T	Hi-ATB	–6°	Full	Double-sided melamine, fragile veneers.
CMT 210.080.10 80T	Hi-ATB ~38°	~+2°	0.126″	Veneered plywood & laminates; crosscuts.
Oshlun SBL-100080 80T	Hi-ATB	Negative	Thin	Chip-free on melamine/veneers for less money.
Irwin Marples 80T	Hi-ATB	Low	Thin	Good finish for interiors/moldings.

Don’t over-index on tooth count alone. Tooth shape + hook angle drives the “chip-free” part of plywood cutting at least as much as TPI.

Set Up Your Saw for Tear-Out-Free Plywood

Even the right blade needs a little help. These habits lock in clean edges:

Install a Zero-Clearance Insert (ZCI):

A ZCI supports veneer fibers at the kerf, dramatically reducing chip-out and improving safety. You can buy one or make one from plywood or MDF; both work well.

Use Tape or Score the Cut Line:

Blue tape over the cut line adds fiber support. For mission-critical edges, score a shallow pass (≈1/32″) first, then make the through-cut—this mimics a scoring blade.

Blade Height:

Set the teeth so the gullets clear the veneer; too low or too high can cause top/bottom chipping, respectively.

Feed and Support:

Steady feed; don’t force it. Use infeed/outfeed support so the panel doesn’t rock and peel veneer at the end of the cut. (Thin-kerf users: keep the fence toe-out minimal and your riving knife aligned to avoid deflection.)

Thin-Kerf vs Full-Kerf for Plywood

• Thin-Kerf (≈3/32″) is Easier on 1.5–2 HP saws, saves material, and, paired with Hi-ATB, can still deliver stellar plywood edges (e.g., Freud LU79 thin-kerf plywood blade). Watch for deflection; use a sharp blade and gentle feed.
• Full-Kerf (1/8″): Stiffer plate tracks straighter and resists heat on long rips. If you’ve got a 3 HP cabinet saw and chase absolute perfection on veneered panels, full-kerf Hi-ATB like Duraline is hard to beat.

How We Chose

Authoritative sources consistently recommend specialized blades for chip-prone materials, not generic combination blades. For plywood, Hi-ATB + many teeth + low/negative hook is the formula; TCG becomes attractive for long-run melamine production where longevity beats micro-clean edges.

Buyer’s Guide: Features Worth Paying For

• Hi-ATB Grind (~38–40°): The steeper the bevel, the cleaner the shear. (Tradeoff: tips are more delicate.)
• Low/Negative Hook (0° to –6°): Gentler exit = less veneer lift. This hook is essential for laminates and melamine and great for plywood.
• Anti-Vibration Slots / Stabilizers: Reduce chatter, heat, and sideways wander—especially helpful on thin-kerf plates.
• Quality Carbide & Serviceability: Premium carbides (e.g., C-4, TiCo) hold an edge longer; choose blades that sharpen well to extend ROI.

Field Tips for Flawless Edges

• When trimming narrow strips, back the cut with sacrificial stock to prevent exit blow-out. (This is the same logic as taping.)
• Clean your blade—pitch buildup masquerades as dullness and increases tear-out. (Many manufacturers even sell cleaners and recommend regular maintenance.)
• Mind panel orientation: Put the “show” face down on a table saw when using blades with a positive hook or on portable circular saws to control top-side chipping; with a negative/neutral hook and a ZCI, you’ll get great results on both faces.

Understanding Veneer Tear-Out Mechanics

Plywood misbehaves because its top veneer wants to lift while cross-grained plies resist, creating leverage at the tooth’s exit. Tear-out is fiber failure under tension: a positively hooked tooth pries upward, the brittle glue line yields, and the veneer fractures along the grain. High-ATB geometry mitigates this by shearing like a paring knife instead of chiseling, and a neutral or negative hook reduces that pry-bar effect. Zero-clearance inserts support fibers right at the kerf, preventing them from bending before they’re severed. Stable feed matters, too; inconsistent pressure oscillates the plate, widens the effective kerf, and invites chipping on both faces. Finally, heat worsens everything. Warm glue softens, fibers smear, and the tooth transitions from slicing to tearing. Control heat with sharp carbide, clean gullets, and dust extraction. When geometry, support, feed, and temperature align, the veneer shears cleanly and edges look burnished rather than sanded—no filler required. Riving knives stabilize panels.

Choosing Between Hi-ATB and TCG

Hi-ATB earns its plywood crown by slicing fibers cleanly with steep bevels that act like micro knives. The tradeoff is delicacy: those thin tips can dull faster in abrasive laminates or aluminum-oxide finishes. Triple-Chip Grind flips the equation, alternating chamfered and flat teeth for durability and extended run life, while sacrificing a whisper of glass-smooth polish. Choose Hi-ATB with roughly eighty teeth and a neutral to negative hook for furniture-grade veneers, drawer fronts, and visible carcass edges. TCG with a low hook angle is a pragmatic choice for production melamine, closet components, or jobs where longevity trumps microscopic perfection. Some shops carry both: Hi-ATB for final dimensions and TCG for roughing or bulk sheet processing. Matching blade geometry to workload saves money, reduces burn, and preserves edge quality across a project, not just a single heroic cut. When unsure, test both grinds on scrap and scrutinize edges afterward.

Blade Maintenance and Sharpening Intervals

Clean blades cut cooler, straighter, and kinder to plywood veneers. Pitch buildup thickens the tooth, effectively changes hook geometry, and elevates friction—three highways to fuzz and chip-out. Adopt a cleaning cadence: when you notice burn marks, heavier push, or a sticky feel on the plate, pause and wash the blade with a non-caustic cleaner and nylon brush. Sharpen earlier than you think. It’s cheaper to touch up keen edges than to grind back battered, overheated carbide. Track hours on abrasive materials; melamine punishes edges faster than plain veneer. Store blades on rigid racks or magnetic pads so plates stay flat and teeth don’t kiss steel. After sharpening, verify runout, reset your zero-clearance insert, and make a test pass across scrap plywood. A clean, sharp blade restores that crisp, silent shearing sound—and your edges return to glass. Keep a simple logbook for hours, materials, and sharpening dates to track performance accurately.

Zero-Clearance Inserts: DIY vs Commercial

A zero-clearance insert acts like a bodyguard for veneer fibers, eliminating the yawning throat gap that invites tear-out. Commercial phenolic or anodized aluminum versions offer stable bodies, replaceable wear strips, and precise leveling hardware—excellent for daily abuse and repeatability. DIY inserts from Baltic birch or MDF are shockingly effective, inexpensive, and easy to tailor for specialty angles, dados, or thin-kerf setups. The build is simple: rabbet the underside for plate support, drill for leveling screws and a finger hole, clamp it in place, and raise the blade through to create the custom kerf. Label each insert for blade type and bevel setting to swap without guesswork. Whether bought or built, the ZCI’s job is identical: support fibers at the moment of severing, transforming sketchy veneers into immaculate, chip-free shoulders. Make dedicated inserts for miters, bevels, dados, and laminates, and carefully store them labeled, flat, and dust-free between projects.

Dust Extraction and Cut Quality

Chip-free edges love clean air. Fine dust trapped in gullets behaves like abrasive slurry, elevating heat and grinding fibers rather than slicing them cleanly. Robust extraction—overarm collection paired with cabinet pickup—keeps gullets clear so each tooth shears instead of skating on debris. Lower heat prolongs carbide life, preserving the keen edges that make Hi-ATB geometry sing. Good extraction steadies feed, too; when dust isn’t blinding your line or lubricating the work, you naturally push more consistently. It also protects the motor, bearings, and lungs, reducing downtime and sharpening frequency. Seal leaks, fit tight blast gates, and position hoods close to the source. Add a pre-separator for heavy chips and a fine filter for respirable dust. The result is quieter, cooler cutting and gleaming plywood edges requiring no sanding. Even a modest shop vacuum helps if connections are tight, hoses are short, and filters are maintained religiously.

Feed Rate, RPM, and Heat Management

Even the perfect blade fails if you steam the veneer. Heat is the enemy of clean plywood cuts because softened glue lines and scorched fibers fracture messily under the tooth. Match feed rate to tooth count and rim speed: slow enough to let each Hi-ATB tip shear, fast enough to keep gullets clearing chips before they regrind. Listen for the sweet hum—motor strain, pitchy chatter, or a smoky scent signal friction overload. Verify the blade reaches full speed under load; underspeeding behaves like a dull edge. If your saw allows, use a calibrated tachometer to confirm RPM. Make shallow scoring passes for fragile veneers, then complete the cut at a confident, even pace. Everything you do to curb heat—sharp teeth, clean plate, correct height, steady feed—multiplies, delivering calm, glass-edge results. If burns appear, slow the blade, lighten pressure, clean the plate, and reset the insert carefully before attempting another pass.

FAQs

What tooth count is best for 3/4″ plywood?

Eighty teeth on a 10″ blade is the sweet spot for chip-free edges at reasonable feeds. More teeth or a steeper Hi-ATB can help for ultra-thin veneer or melamine, but expect slower feeds.

ATB vs Hi-ATB vs TCG—what’s best?

For plywood/veneer: Hi-ATB wins on cleanliness. Low-hook TCG is a durable alternative if you’re cutting lots of melamine/laminates and want longer life with slightly less pristine edges.

Do I need a zero-clearance insert?

If “clean” is the goal, yes. A ZCI supports veneer fibers at the cut, dramatically reducing tear—out, especially on crosscuts.

Thin-kerf on a cabinet saw—bad idea?

Not at all. Thin-kerf shines on lower-power saws; cabinet saws can run either. If you push hard or rip thick hardwoods, a full-kerf plate resists deflection better.

Why is my “plywood blade” still chipping?

Common culprits: dull teeth, improper blade height, no ZCI, feeding too fast, or unsupported exit edge. Try a shallow scoring pass and tape—then cut through.

Conclusion

Clean plywood cuts aren’t luck—they’re geometry plus setup. Prioritize a Hi-ATB, ~80-tooth, low/negative-hook blade and pair it with smart habits (zero-clearance insert, steady feed, correct blade height, optional tape/score). Do that, and the veneer stops exploding and starts gleaming.

Quick final picks:

• Show-face perfection: Forrest Duraline Hi-AT 80T or Freud LU80R010.
• Budget but still crisp: Diablo D1080X.
• Under-2 HP saws: Freud LU79R010 (thin-kerf).
• Melamine/laminate all day: Amana MB10800C (−6° hook).

Thin-kerf eases the cut; full-kerf tracks like a rail—choose based on your saw’s horsepower. Keep the blade clean, use a ZCI, and don’t rush the feed. With the right tooth geometry and a little discipline, your table saw will leave plywood edges that look like they came off a scoring-panel saw—no filler, no sandpaper, just straight to assembly.